European Sojourn

Amsterdam: A good time! That’s what you’ll have in this beautiful capital of the Netherlands, which feels at once like a 17-century city and a bustling modern metropolis. Famous for its canals and extraordinary museums, Amsterdam is also an intimate city with strangely alluring streets and squares.

Founded in 902, Bamberg remains a medieval-looking city known for its symphony orchestra and specialty “smoke” beer. Bamberg was also the first site in Germany of lithographic printing featuring movable type.

The city’s winding streets are filled with baroque patrician houses as well as the breathtaking 11th century cathedral of Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich II, which houses his tomb as well as that of Pope Clement II. Tour the 16th century Alt Residenz (Old Residence) and the 17th century Neue Residenz (New Residence), both of which were bishop’s houses.

Where were you half a million years ago?

Well, if you were Peking Man, you were right here, in what is now known as Beijing. For literally thousands upon
thousands of years, this has been the heart of commerce and political power in China. So when the folks here talk about having a sense of history, you can be sure they know that of which they speak.

You will be able to taste just a bit of that history-but oh, how rich the sample will be. There is Tiananmen Square, the Imperial Palace, the Great Hall of the People, and Mao Zedong Memorial Hall, just to mention a few. An excellent way to see the city is to do as the locals do get on a bicycle and wend your way through the Beijing most tourists miss. It’ll be an unforgettable experience.

Belgrade is the capital as well as the largest city in Serbia. Its name translates as “White City” but its long history and vibrant culture are full of color. Set at a strategic location at the confluence of the Saba and Danube rivers, the former of which bisects the city, Belgrade offers a wide variety of activities and attractions to suit almost any interest.

Bucharest is Romania’s capital, with a population of over 2.3 million. It is rich in culture and history. Founded more than 500 years ago, it is a natural starting point for visits to the country. During the 1930’s its tree-lined boulevards and fin de siecle architecture earned it the nickname the “Little Paris.” There is even an Arc de Triomphe on the handsome Soseaua Kiseleff, itself longer than the Champs Elysees and alive with blossom in the spring. Despite the massive reconstructions of the 1980s, Bucharest remains a Garden City, leafy and pleasant, with pavement cafes open in the warm summer, and boating on its lakes and rivers.

Exploring the city–Finding your way is easy in Bucharest. The metro system offers a standard fare and covers much of the city. Major boulevards run north-south from the Arcul de Triumf (Triumphal Arch) down to the Centrul Civic, (Civic Centre) crossed by others going east-west. Calea Victoriei-a continuation of Soseaua Kiseleff is where locals like to promenade on summer evenings and you will find distinguished public buildings like the National History Museum and – more practically – the main Post Office, while close to its southern end is the lovely Parcul Cismigiu (Cismigiu Park). Parallel to Calea Victoriei runs Bulevardul (Boulevard) Magheru, home to tourist offices, airlines, cinemas and hotels.

An eclectic mix of styles–You’ll be intrigued by the city’s eclectic mix of architecture, from Curtea Veche, the remains of Prince Vlad Tepes 15th century palace – he was the city’s founder as well as the inspiration of “Dracula” to Orthodox Churches, Second Empire mansions, the solid Stalinist architecture of the communist years and the colossal 6,000 room Parliament House, the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Bucharest is always interesting.

What to see–Bucharest’s museums are a destination in themselves, especially the open-air Muzeul Satului (Village Museum) in Herastrau Park near the Arcul de Triumf. Here you find village architecture and crafts from all over Romania, including wooden churches from Maramures.

Other “musts” include the National Museum of Art, once the Royal Palace; the National History Museum on Calea Victoriei, housing the superb silver of the Treasury; and Curtea Veche with its ornate little 16th century church. Close by stands the magnificent Church of the Patriarchate, built in 1657 and preserved amongst the contrasting modernity of the Centrul Civic. And don’t miss Stavropoleos Church near Curtea Veche, a veritable jewel of Romanian Orthodox architecture.

If you are fortunate enough to be in one of those churches during a christening or wedding you will witness an unforgettable ritual.

La Boheme in Bucharest–The city’s artistic life backed its Parisian nickname and today is as vibrant as ever. A classic repertoire – Puccini, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart – is maintained at the Opera House.The splendid neo-classical building of the Atheneul Roman (Romanian Athenaeum) lends grace to international-standard concerts by the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra. Yet ticket prices are a fraction of the price you would pay elsewhere.

Downtown delights–Every tourist likes to shop and you’ll find department stores around Piata Unirii and on the main boulevards. Alternatively a bazaar district of small traders thrives during the day on the narrow streets around Strada Lipscani, close to Curtea Veche.

Specialities to look for include local ceramics, glassware, linens and woodcarving. Or go to the thronging Talcioc Sunday morning flea market along the Dambovita river for a memorable experience. The capital’s restaurants are regaining their vigour, with grilled beef, chicken or pork the basis of many dishes, followed by a variety of pastries for dessert. Enliven your eating with Romanian wines and with plum brandy (Tuica) the national drink as an aperitif. Prices are gratifyingly low and the atmosphere in bars, restaurants and night clubs is welcoming, often accompanied by the rhythms of gypsy music.
Romanians are warm-hearted people and like to enjoy themselves. Why not join their fun?

The city’s countryside–Forests and lakes encircle Bucharest, with ancient Palaces and Monasteries set amongst them. The towered Snagov Monastery, dating from 1408, is a favourite for locals who canoe on the lake. Or visit the elegant 18th centry Mogosoaia Palace, only 14 km (9 miles) to the north of Lake Mogosoaia. There are many other possibilities, too.

The capital of Hungary, Budapest was formed by the unification of two cities, Buda and Pest, separated by the Danube River. This sparkling eastern European capital has culture, nightlife, gambling, folk art and fine cuisine to offer. More than 4 million tourists each year are drawn by such attractions as the Buda Castle quarter, over 200 museums, around 80 geothermal springs, the largest synagogue in Europe and more.

Cologne’s great Gothic Cathedral is a magnificent reminder of man’s ability to create exquisite art from stone. Its lacy twin spires and wonderful stained glass never fail to impress. Miraculously, the Cathedral escaped wartime destruction, unlike most of the city. The Old Town attracts visitors with excellent restaurants, lively taverns, bars and boutiques. The pedestrian-only Hohe-Strasse is a shopper’s paradise, and Eau de Cologne toilet water, trademarked 4711 (the former address), is world famous.

Kinderdijk is a village in the Netherlands, in the province South Holland, about 15 km east of Rotterdam. The windmills of Kinderdijk are one of the best-known Dutch tourist sites. It is the largest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997.

Woods, Lakes and meadows make up a majority of Koblenz, and its famous sites draw visitors from all over to view the stunning beauty.

The famous Benedictine abbey of Melk, one of Europe’s most splendid example of Baroque architecture, attracts thousands of visitors each year.

Melk, which was first mentioned as “Medilica” in a document in the year 831, received its town charter more than 100 years ago. This lovely town is like a picture book come alive!

The town center is quite small, however you still find such a great variety of architectural gems like in hardly any other town of Europe.

A quaint Bavarian village, Miltenberg began as a Roman fort on the Main, and grew prosperous on income from river traffic. The Gothic grandeur of its Merchant Hall and lovely medieval and Renaissance houses reflect affluence and cultural wealth. Enticing outdoor cafes, half-timbered houses, and a 400 year-old fountain are among the memorable sights found in Market Square.

Nuremberg (German Nürnberg), city in south central Germany, on the Pegnitz River, in Bavaria, near Fürth. The city is a commercial and industrial center, served by railroads and the Ludwig Canal, which connects the Danube and Main rivers. Nuremberg is widely known for its toys and honey and spice cakes (Lebkuchen); other products include motor vehicles, electrical and electronic equipment, office machinery, textiles, and precision instruments. Among the city’s points of interest are the Hauptmarkt, the main market square; the Gothic Saint Sebald’s Church (mainly 13th century); a castle (begun 11th century); the German National Museum; toy and transportation museums; the house (now a museum) where the artist Albrecht Dürer lived; and extensive parts of the old city walls (chiefly 15th century). A section of the University of Erlangen-Nuremberg is in the city.

Osijek, the fourth largest city in Croatia as well as the economic and cultural center of its eastern region, is located on the right bank of the river Drava, just upstream of its confluence with the Danube.

Nearby Kopaèki Rit is arguably the largest natural wetlands area in Europe and a popular destination for tourist to the area. Other attractions include the annual Croatian Tambura Music Festival, the oldest beer brewery in Croatia, and numerous museums and markets.

The Co-Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul is another of the city’s landmarks, featuring a multi-tiered 90-metre spire, making it the second tallest building in Croatia after the Zagreb Cathedral.

Human settlements have existed here at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers ever since prehistoric times. In this millennium the city was considerably enlarged by the prince bishops of Passau, who made it their royal residence and capital of the largest Danube diocese. The wonderful Baroque buildings that dominate the city today were built after the great fire of 1662. One of the most striking is cathedral of St. Stephan, which boasts the world’s biggest church organ. One of the best ways to enjoy the magic of Passau is with a sightseeing tour by ship.

Prague, the capitol of the Czech Republic and Stredocesky (Central Bohemia), is a city of history unlike any other major European city. Unscathed by bombing during World War II, many of its old buildings stand as testimony to the events that occurred here.

A perfect combination: an inviting skyline, impressive historic monuments, and legendary hospitality. Regensburg, Germany’s best preserved large medieval city, offers a harmonious scenario in every respect. Here, the heritage of major past eras is the spice in the soup of lively urban life.

Get a feeling for life in the days of old – by walking over the Stone Bridge, built over 850 years ago and the oldest of its kind in Germany. Or stroll through the Old Town lanes with their tall patricians’ towers; pass through the Roman Porta Praetoria at the Northern perimeter; and visit the Old Town Hall with historic imperial hall and the palace of the princes of Thurn & Taxis. Or take the time to listen to an uplifting choir concert in St. Peter’s Cathedral – Bavaria’s most outstanding Gothic structure.

Ride the boat across the Danube rapids, enjoy some of the many festivals, experience art and culture at historic sites, and treat yourself to Regensburg fried sausage at the historic Salzstadel.

Vidin is an entirely preserved medieval riverside town.

How is it that Vienna’s mood manages to be at once so sanguinary and so sanguine? Somehow the city’s fondness for the morbid and the bizarre never seems at odds with its sunny stability. Rather, all Vienna works the way its graveyards and its Graben work. The order here is rich, organic, and complex. Death takes its place alongside life, the old alongside the new, the eccentric alongside the conventional, the mad alongside the sane.

Even the city’s geography is orderly in an organic, inspiriting way. Vienna is a series of concentric circles, or, more accurately, half circles, rippling outward from its center in the inner town (where Vienna began as the ancient Roman camp of Vindobona) to the Vienna Woods themselves, which are the ultimate foothills and fingerlings of the Alps. At the nucleus, the first district, you find this vigorous hodgepodge of old and new, sublimity and grotesquerie, urbanity and coziness. Around it, in a protective and officious circle, there is the Ringstrasse, a collection of public and private buildings, all planned nearly simultaneously (in the mid nineteenth century) on an enormous scale. The buildings are charmless but imposing, and they were all designed as though they were theatrical sets, with an eye to the illustrious past: fake Renaissance for the university, fake early Baroque for the Burgtheater (the Baroque being the period when common-
ers joined with the gentry in flocking to the theater), fake Gothic for the Votive Church and the Town Hall (since the medieval commune represented the source of Viennese government), fake Greek for the democratic institution of Parliament. At once expansive and forbidding, the Ringstrasse hems in the vibrant inner town and formalizes it. It
was built where the fortress walls of Vienna once stood, and even today it acts as a sort of wall, inside which the city carries on with the appropriate metropolitan bustle, and outside which Vienna can sprawl and relax and indulge itself. Small wonder that the next ring beyond the Ringstrasse, the Gurtel, is best known as the circle where streetwalkers ply their trade.

Beyond Gurtel, Vienna fans out into neighborhoods, pleasant, almost bucolic districts that retain the character of their past lives as quaint Austrian villages. There are workers’ regions (including the beautiful and still-functioning Karl Marx-Hof housing project, built during the utopian twenties, when the city was often referred to as Red Vienna) and posh residential areas. Good mansion viewing can be had in the nineteenth district, where you can and should visit the Gey-muller-Schlossel. Although its clock collection is its gratest draw, the Geymuller-Schlossel is one of Vienn’a most delicious repositories of Biedermeier furniture, the igenious and beautiful stuff made to amuse the upper middle class during the early nineteenth century.

A history filled town located near the Main and Tauber rivers.

Intersecting trade routes, a favorable climate, fertile soil and a primary waterway brought wealth to Würzburg from the early Middle Ages. Symbols of this wealth-and the artistry it bought-are what still attract visitors: the massive, medieval Fortress Marienberg that towers over the city; the Residenz, arguably the most ornate Baroque palace in Germany; St. Kilian’s Cathedral, with its Romanesque exterior and splendidly Rococo interior; and Neumünster Church.

Today, Würzburg, the northern terminus of the Romantic Road, is a surprisingly cosmopolitan Bavarian city filled with architectural and artistic treasures-and exquisite Franconian wine.

Those who make the trip to Würzburg are generally surprised by its warmth, charm and extensive variety of art, architecture and culture. Würzburg’s prime location on the Main makes for delightful strolls along the promenade, and riverfront cafes overflow in good weather. Sightseeing boats offer sightseeing excursions and trips to neighboring villages, and passenger ships plying the Rhine, Main and Danube make the city a prime stop.

Würzburg lies in the heart of Franconian Wine Region, and wine and wine-making are central to life in Würzburg. In autumn, the hills surrounding Würzburg and throughout Franconia are dotted with grape pickers, who fill baskets and dump them into waiting trailers.